27 thoughts on “Fighters: Water”

    1. I too like the Sawyer line.
      Research any filter you select, any reputable filter will have independent lab results available. Thatss a big toot your own horn opportunity that isn’t overlooked by filter makers.

      In line filters are great for speed and ease of use. You used the term fighters: water. I will take that to mean fighters on the move needing water, not chilling around the fire.

      Sawyer and MSR and one I forget are my go to inline/gravity filters. You may also consider the LifeStraw which can often be found on sale.

      For less on the go, like you have some time to filter, again the gravity filters are great, but i prefer the Katadyn Pocket Filter for which i use camelback adapters. Quick connect to camel drink tube. Its heavy but its a fine machine.

      Gravity setup will of course require two bags or containers, dirty to clean. Inline only the dirty and your mouth to take in the clean.

  1. tfA-t Island has artesian springs bubbling up it’s fresh pureness from within the rocks

    his well is as bountiful as Giche Gumme is large

    Oh Canada!

    the land of virgin earth and cool cool water

  2. I have a few iodine tablets in my wallet (never know when I might do an e&e and I live in a rural area with a lot of streams). Sawyer mini is in my bag and some Smart Water bottles (the threading fits perfect on the Sawyer).

    Beats the socks off the life straw.

  3. Out in the sticks I use a Sawyer mini with accessories (tree bag, collapsible buckets for retrieving water from ponds, etc., hoses, fittings), etc.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FA2RLX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    On the compound we have a system for back up that we happen to be using right now because we received a boil water notice. It is a series of clean 5 gal buckets with these filters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTJJIF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Both systems work well and we have multiple parts for replacements.

  4. No thirst like combat thirst.
    Adrenaline and manic survival of the fittest are thirsty critters.
    Boolits and water go together, can’t have too much of either.
    How much ammo are you willing to forego for enough water in your combat/patrol load-out, or vice versa. How can you predict what you will need most of? You can only carry so much weight and be able to operate effectively.

    Got to thinking about this, came up with a help.
    In my AO, sources of water are abundant. Its purifying it that is the bottle neck.
    I’m a welder/metal fab guy by trade. Titanium is a superbly corrosion resistant metal, particularly commercially pure grade. Its also around 40% the weight of aluminum alloys.
    The gravity style filter candles like used in Berkley gravity filter units come in a lot of shapes and sizes. They have those handy plastic wing nuts and fat rubber sealing washer. Be sure to get gravity units, (pressure type ceramic filter candles will not pass one drop of H2O no matter how long you wait using gravity)
    Made myself a back-packable mini berkley style gravity filter, out of a length of 4 inch OD Tiranium tubing, welded a bottom plate on one end of the tube, with a hole to take the threaded outlet spigot on the gravity filter candles, a bail at the open end, and a snug fitted slip on cap, with a tiny teeny air hole in it. A length of para cord to hang the filter assembly whiles its filtering, plus a strap system so it can be attached to MOLLE and ALICE points, and universally to most gear. Plus 2 lengths of hose for the outlet barb, one of which can be hooked up to mil surp NBC canteen caps, this way with a filter loaded with water, strapped to gear or pack, it can drip fill a canteen mounted lower or on a battle belt on the move, or conversely in a bivouac or position hanging from its bail or set higher than the water container your filling. Its super light weight, being its titanium, it is very robust and rigged, .024 inch thick thin wall Ti tubing is really tough stuff.
    Made the first filter body to hold a bit more than a quart, with the filter candle inside. Then made a 2 quart unit, more head height increases filter flow rate, as its head height not volume which creates head pressure, have the raw stock to fabricate a 1 gallon unit for overnight filtering. Found in a pinch you can suck on the outlet tubing and speed up its flow rate, drink direct, but that probably reduces the level of filtration.
    Rigged up a pre-filter screen using a small size kitchen utensil sieve, hunted around for a very fine mesh stainless steel one. Also non paper filter drip coffee makers have extremely fine mesh screens that hold the ground coffee that look like they could be modified to work. One filter from my wife’s wore out coffee maker, has a nifty cup design, that works pretty good. I modified the kitchen sieve into a pre-filter that slips into the top opening of the filter unit. For cloudy/muddy/sediment water, been carry some pure cotton terry cloth for getting the bulk of sediment out so as to avoid clogging up the ceramic carbon filter candle. Havent tried it yet, most wild water around here is crystal clear, springs that come off the top of a coal rib, its very clean water to start with.
    The berkley style candles are easy to refresh the OD with just your hand of piece of cloth, scrubbing gently on the OD, the ceramic sloughs right off, exposing a fresh outer layer. Gently is the operative idea, they have very soft ceramic media outer layer.

    There’s a new carbon silver ceramic type out, its a real stubby too, one filter is good for 5000 gallon life, they are about 6 inches tall, next level gravity filter tech, leaving more volume open for water. Got one, but haven’t tried it.
    Came up with the concept after fabricating a 4 element 5 gallon kitchen counter top drinking water filter unit. We’ve been using it for 7 years now, and only on the second set of filter candles. Used two 5 gallon stainless steel stock pots, and a stainless steel bulkhead style spigot hand valve home beer brewers use for draining hot mashing tubs.
    Basically the tactical filter unit is a scaled down kitchen unit.

    A cool guy to get raw Titanium material from is Titanium Joe, he sells salvaged and new Ti in about any conceivable style and alloy you want. And in any quantity too, his prices are as good as you can find. Easy to use online ordering website. Been going to Ti Joe for 22 years.
    https://www.titaniumjoe.com/

    Theres a number of ways to fabricate the filter tank, out of plastic pipe, stainless steel etc.

    1. I’d not call myself a welder, though I have three different types, just a novice at it really, and the only thing I’ve ever welded is mild steel and brazing with the oxy setup.

      Titanium welding is no joke as I recall, as it’s a reactive metal when you get it too hot. White hot fireworks in the right conditions, am I right? Is there a specific setup that works best for this, TIG with helium, perhaps?

      Thanks for the input.

      1. Like aluminum when fusion welding with TIG, its more muddy, doesn’t “wet” up and create a liquid puddle like ferrous alloys and CRS’s. Your filler rod sticks easily also, use like .045 filler makes it easier to dab your stick and stop it sticking. Too much shield gas will cause problems, from turbulance, just enough for coverage of you puddle, that way as you trail/travel away the trailing weld joint gets enough gas to keep it from burning/oxidizing before it gets below critical temp. No need for a trailing cup.
        Those big ass clear Pyrex cup diffusers work pretty good. Great for tube assemblies, you can see thru the cup when welding out of position joints. Get a lot of electrode stick out to over the traditional opaque ceramic diffuser cups. But they all work well once you pick up the technique.

        Simply fusing a butt joint or leave a overhang of parent metal, you can use as a consumable is another technique.
        With Ti the joint has to be very clean and burr free or you need filler to close the melt back opening. Use clean files, only waterproof silicone carbide abrasive cloth, fresh SST brushes, never cloth to clean with, paper cotton Q Tip brand swabs and acetone are best. Both leave no bad residue. this applies equally to welding aluminum too. Except Aluminum alloy oxidizes the moment atmosphere touches it, silicone carbide abrasive used to freshen up your area of wold joint greatly improves weld quality. Within 24 hours you need to re-clean because its always oxidizing. Oxide is oxygen under weld temps, makes for poor weldments and porosity.

        Simple way to gas back is to use a Y valve on your argon regulator at the outlet, with a hose barb on one leg, a piece of Tygon hose, from the Y to your part, only need a tiny flow, enough you can feel it on your tongue, everything tacked together, piece of masking tape on the far end of the tube with your gas hose filling the assembly on the inside, the argon pushes out the atmosphere, its lots heavier gas. Then open both valves on the Y, start welding.
        A large diffuser cup works best, use your foot pedal and pulse the heat in time to dabbing your filler rod, that way u put lots less heat in your joint. Runs better. Filler sticks less.
        Ti welds mushy like aluminum and magnesium whenthe parent metal gets too hot. Cleanliness is next to godliness too.
        Lots of wives tails about Ti. The main concern is like you said it becomes highly reactive at welding temps. If your not fusion welding to a specific aerospace specification, trying to avoid “alpha case”, require superior quality drop thru on a ridgid tube assembly, there’s no tribal magic voodoo secrets, its just another metal that has its own unique characteristics. Great metal. Made trellis rube race chassis for my personal motorcycle road racers, used V Twin engines, whole chassis, ready to mount parts, swingarm included, 14.5lbs for frame, 7.5lbs for swingarm. Used 1.250 OD by .035 wall Ti trubing, and sheet stock/monocoque fabrication. The reduction in weight was fantastic. Huge increase in power to weight ratio. Great chassis/handling feedback.

        Go slow, take your time. Find the right cup and filler angles, use stable steady rests for your hands and arms. Use that pedal. It was designed to vary your amperage, with Ti, back off till all u have is an arc that allows you to see your work thru your filter, gives you time to make your next move, get set, then give it the heat, back off, repeat. No law says once you strike an arc you can’t stop. GTAW was invented to create superior welds with the least amount of defects, to give more control, it was not for high production or deposition rates, say like vas with hard wire feed and SMAW. This way, your not being controlled by your puddle and fusion, you control it. Sounds commonsensical, obvious, but you’d be surprised how many welders don’t recognize they are the welder, not the heat or what the machine is doing, and you don’t need to chase it. Thats where a lot of defects originate. You aren’t welding fast, your not making parts well, if your making defects.
        Its adapting conceptual thinking and mind set really. Be amazed how your weld quality and skills increase this way. That should tell you a lot.
        Used to teach aerospace welding classes. Learned more teaching others than in 45 years welding.

  5. 35% FOOD GRADE hydrogen peroxide will help preserve stored water for a few months or more. About 25 drops per gallon. An old timer from the 1930’s told me he used to put 10 drops on a glass of water and drink it on an empty stomach. Oxygenates the blood.

    I did it and it has harmless side effects and great benefits. Keep it out of direct sunlight and wash “spills” with lots of cold water.

    1. Voor, please contact me ASAP, email. If your in the area lets arrange a FTF, or stop in spend the night. Need to spitball, if possible.

      Dirk

  6. We’re using big berkeys , upgraded filters. Keep pocket filters in rigs, and high end units in bug bags .

    Good topic. Perhaps the most important issue needing addressed.

    Dirt

  7. No place else to put this. Last Saturday night, in Chicago, on the Magnificent Mile, 1000 rampaging savages attacked, beat and robbed unsuspecting tourists. They heavily damaged vehicles that were stopped in traffic. And did some looting for fun. Only 9 arrested. An absolute and total blackout in the news media about the incident. It doesn’t fit the narrative. White bad. Black good. Any atrocities against White people will be blocked by the communist media. Always have sources.

    1. Him,

      Don’t at all blame you for doing a necessary shout out about the recent “Niggertivity”
      (coined appropriately and truthfully by Author Taleeb Starkes of, “The Uncivil War –
      Blacks Vs. Niggers” other terms will be in use by him by ” “) that just happened in
      Shit-Congo. This IS what happens ANYWHERE near a “HoG” (hood or ghetto) where
      “Niggers” (Negro Individuals Generating Grief Everywhere Routinely) are clustered in
      exponentially large numbers.

      Of course the juden controlled and operated ‘mass media’ will NOT openly talk about what happened..any more than ANY member of the equally juden owned ‘Uniparty’ will effectively discuss it…feckless race hustlers like Kamala Harris, Maxine Waters and the mutated water buffalo that CAN’T pass through a Burger Baron drive-thru by the name of Stacey Abrams however routinely tell the
      rest of us, “We NEED to ‘have a conversation’ about “racism” (translation: “We entitled and spoiled niggers want to do ALL the talking – you non-niggers just shut the fuck up and agree to EVERYTHING we say – otherwise we’ll ‘chimp out’ on you like we did on the Wendy’s in Atlanta!!! And keep that free shit that we earned for our people being your slaves coming – OR ELSE!!”).

      IF you haven’t yet read Mr. Starke’s book, here’s a short (17 pg) excerpt to give you
      an understanding of what he as a black man has to say about niggers, and why he
      despises them utterly:

      The Uncivil War: BLACKS vs. NIGGERS
      https://pansiesforplato.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/the-un-civil-war-blacks-vs-niggers-by-taleeb-starkes.pdf

      “..Read Before Proceeding
      1. I am not advising, advocating,or otherwise condoning engagement of any act that would be in violation of local, state, or federal law.

      2. This book excessively uses the word ‘NIGGER’ and its many derivatives. Advisedly, if you’re a person who is easily offended by its usage, you’ll really be pissed!

      3. The news headlines referenced throughout this book are actual headlines. In many instances, my comments are noted underneath the headlines [in parenthesis]to emphasize a point. Although I’ve earnestly tried to ensure that the links were functioning, a few were broken by the time of this book’s upload. Even still, the headlines were captured in their original, unadulterated form, and are web searchable.

      4. This book may contain copyrighted material in which the copyright owner may not have specifically authorized usage. Such usage is permitted under the “Fair Use” provisions located in the Copyright Act of 1976, which permits usage “for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research.”

      ***This book is dedicated to the memory of those innocent souls whose premature demise was NIGGER-inflicted.”

      “NIGGERtivity–A fusion of the words “NIGGER” and “Activity,” which describes the typical turmoil and violence caused by NIGGERS. It ranges from simple assault, murder, and all crimes in between. [Authors note: The full range and impact of NIGGERtivity is incalculable]”

      “HoG–An acronym meaning“Hood or Ghetto,” which is a physical place of limbo and stagnation where Obsessive Nigger Disorder (O.N.D) and its destructive elements manifest. It is essentially ground zero for NIGGERtivity.”

      My only real criticism of Taleeb’s work is that he continues to use the utterly
      inaccurate term ‘African-American/s’; except for the very FIRST [original]
      generation of africans brought here by the juden owned slave operations – OR –
      an individual coming over NOW from Africa, blacks here in America are American.
      They have NO substantial or immediate ties to Africa in ANY meaningful way (no
      matter how loudly they repeatedly claim to ALL be ‘Kangs ‘n sheeeit!’). I share
      historian Paul Johnson’s distate for ‘hypenated-peoples’..you were born here –
      you’re AMERICAN. Your family may have original roots elsewhere but HERE is
      where YOUR dice fell and came to rest..deal with it and move on!

      Here’s where you can find Taleeb’s books:

      https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/18847806-the-un-civil-war
      (wanted to give folks other options than throwing more sheckels to
      jeffy bezo(((sostein))) and his ‘Ama-ZOG’ monster.

      Also worth reading is Taleeb’s second book, “Black Lies Matter – Why Lies
      Matter to the Race Grievance Industry”

      https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/29441908-black-lies-matter

      Certainly don’t forget Colin Flaherty’s books on “niggertivity”:
      https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/5239821.Colin_Flaherty

      Like I’ve always said, “You can take the cannibal out of the jungle, but you
      CAN’T take the jungle out of the cannibal!”

      Now, on to the topic at hand:

      Water – Essential – Go for 3 days plus without it and you WILL die!
      (and dying by dehydration IS a extraordinary NASTY way to perish!)

      Each person (adult) needs at LEAST 3 gallons a day..more if involved
      with strenuous activities (patroling, hunting, gardening etc. will need
      MORE) Also figure that children and pets will need water too.

      Don’t forget that the body goes through a LOT of vitamin C during
      high stress activities and moments; as a water soluble vitamin one
      should have proper access to it to replace what’s been used.

      Same goes for electrolyte replacement; the ‘pickle juice’ used for
      packing pickles and dill chips can be an excellent replacement
      electrolyte..some say it works better than the over priced gatorade.
      Dispense at a 1/3rd to 1/4 ratio to an 8oz glass of water. Lukewarm
      or room temp is best for hydration.

      Water MUST be potable, i.e. safe to drink with NO bacteriological
      nasties (pathogens, cysts, animal wastes) or chemical nasties
      (herbacides, insecticides or other harmful chemicals) so distillation
      and/or filtration is a MUST (both if possible).

      It would be wise to have several Berkey or Kaytadyn gravity style
      water filter systems up and running with multiple spare filter elements
      already in stock and on hand. Also having access to an already vetted
      and regularly checked well and a pump that is either electric or at worst
      old style hand operation is very desirable.

      Also important is knowing how to SAFELY deal with one’s bio-waste so
      one DOESN’T contaminate their own water supply. No, dysentery, cholera,
      and related “Old World/’Ancient'” diseases are NOT fun to learn how to deal
      with via first hand experience – prevention IS worth a TON of cure!!!

      Have multiple ‘cammelback’ bladders, carriers, hoses and related filter
      bags..too many is NEVER enough!

      Stay hydrated – stay alive!

      NorthGunner – The Truth Is It’s OWN Defense!

  8. Katadyn Vario-works great backpacking, kayaking, etc. Screws right onto a Nalgene bottle. We have pretty clean water here in NW Montana…but one never knows. Once I filled the bottles, then 200m upstream there was a dead moose laying in the creek. I’ve got Lifestraws in all the trucks in their get home bags (I do a significant amount of offroading on some really awful roads, so having to walk out if I can’t recover is something I plan on.) And then of course, boiling.

  9. “Dig an Injun well,” Caleb said. “Half an hour will do it. Here, I’ll show you.”

    He took the spade and, seeking a dry spot, about twenty feet from the upper end of the pond he dug a hole some two feet square. By the time he was down three feet the water was oozing in fast. He got it down about four feet and then had to stop, on account of inflow. He took a bucket and bailed the muddy stuff out right to the bottom, and let it fill up to be again bailed out. After three bailings the water came in cold, sweet, and pure as crystal.

    “There,” said he, “that water is from your pond, but it is filtered through twenty feet of earth and sand. That’s the way to get cool, pure water out of the dirtiest of swamps. That’s an Injun well.”

    Two Little Savages, by Ernest Thompson Seton
    https://www.gutenberg.org/files/13499/13499-h/13499-h.htm

  10. Since we are doing survival stuff, what happened to BFI powder? (I’d ask Aesop but he is tangled up with a dead computer system.) I can remember this stuff from forever. It stands for Bismoline Medicated Powder, Formic, and Iodine. Was in continuous use in the US Military since WW1. I remember my mom said it was bacteria, fungus, and innumerable powder because everyone used it-including dairy farmers on cows. Supposedly because they stopped making Bismoline-but you can still buy Bismoline powder, so?? It would just be handy to keep in travelling bags, the medicine cabinet, etc. This stuff worked on everything except deep suture wounds, but maybe even then. Is there a similar equivalent?

    1. ah BULLSHIT

      aslop has been proven a panic whore

      he bugged out to avoid the embarrassment of reality slapping him across his dumb fucking face mask

      like who doesn’t have 4 or 5 computers laying around? they’ve only been ubiquitous as cell phones for 20 years

      tfA-t is always proven RIGHT
      his record is unmatched in the annals of time

      and that is all

  11. Have both Berkey gravity and Katadyn Hiker Pro, use pre-1963 silver coins and sometimes silver ingots to keep stored water purified, works like a charm….tested one 64 oz. bottle of water with said silver coin (dime) that had been stored for five years, it tasted as good as when first stored. Lots of streams in the Appalachian mountains, too.

  12. For fighters? Iodine tabs and canteens. Put a cravat/rag over the mouth to keep out the big floaties and drop in a pill. When in a position and someone would do the water run we used to finish off our 1qts, refill them out of our 2 quart and then give him our empty 2 quart. We’d sterilize it ourselves when we got them back. Dude would have a sling rope with like 10, 2 quart canteens on it.
    For base camps, a lyster bag. Filled with jerry cans.
    For jerry cans I have a Katadyn Expedition. Thing does a gallon a minute. On a water run you dont have time for gravity fills/small elements etc. Fill it fast and di-di.
    For winter time, a metal canteen. Ever try and thaw out a camel back pouch over a fire? Keeping your canteens next to your body under all your snivel is fine, but when you strip down to undies and overwhites to move during the day they aren’t going to stay liquid. At least one metal canteen amd replace the leather cap keeper with picture wire, use that and a stick to hold over your heat tab.
    For home? I got jerry cans, a Katadyn expedition, and a little garden cart to shlep them around in.

  13. Been using a Big Berkey for about 10 years. Even on well.
    Never had a failure. Passed the food coloring test.
    Also have Sawyers for camping.

  14. +1 on the Sawyer minis. Cheap, effective, long lasting when backflushing with the included syringe. At home use Berkey and Propur cartridges for years on tap water (heavy metals dontcha know). Lifestraw in the EDC kit and Platypus Gravityworks filters and 1L bags. Ruck with all the portables and use them for water replenishment during walks. Dont take water supply and force myself to find water source on the move for practice sake. Ditches, streams, puddles all for get home practice. Normies in the neighborhood look askance when I am slurping from a puddle with a Lifestraw. T-shirt or bandana to filter the mucky muck when collecting water. All good, still here, gastro works fine slurping aqua bounty from the trail/road side.

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